Food Fight
Dr. Blancke’s paper was one of two recent developments illustrating how factors outside of traditional science are reshaping the GMO debate. On April 27, Chipotle Mexican Grill said it would stop using genetically-modified ingredients in the food served at its U.S. restaurants. Chipotle founder and co-chief executive Steve Ells planted seeds of GMO doubt by saying the company’s decision reflected its desire for “the very best ingredients,” adding in a statement: “It’s clear that a lot of research is still needed before we can truly understand all of the implications of widespread GMO cultivation and consumption.”
Chipotle’s website questions whether GMO ingredients are “raised with care for animals, farmers, and the environment (concluding, “We’re doubtful that the GMO ingredients that used to be in our food meet these criteria”); calls for more independent studies; says GMO-averse customers should be able to eat at its restaurants; and mentions a 2012 study often cited by opponents.
That study, published in Environmental Sciences Europe by GMO critic Charles Benbrook, Ph.D., of Washington State University, linked genetically modified crops to glyphosate-resistant “superweeds,” citing U.S. Department of Agriculture data. Steve Savage, Ph.D., an agricultural scientist and pro-GMO consultant, wrote in Science 2.0 that the 404 million pounds of pesticides cited by Dr. Benbrook came to just 4 oz. per crop acre per year—while greater herbicide use reduced harmful environmental effects of plowing, such as soil erosion.
Chipotle acknowledges it won’t be entirely GMO-free: Genetically-modified grains will feed some of the animals from which meat and dairy products will come, while the chain will continue selling many sodas that contain sweeteners using genetically-modified corn.
Chipotle’s ban comes two years after the chain promised to disclose GMOs in its food, and move away from their use.
“GMOs have an image problem,” Gruber correctly notes. “Rather than rehabilitate that image problem legitimately, the producers of these products simply want to deny consumers the ability to know whether there are GMOs in their products, and to decide whether or not to purchase them. The industry’s argument is, if people know that something has GMO ingredients, they won’t buy it. Well, tough.”
On her blog Food Politics, Marion Nestle, Ph.D, a public health nutritionist, author, and Paulette Goddard Professor of Nutrition, Food Studies, and Public Health at New York University, said of Chipotle’s announcement: “No, this is not a safety issue. GMO corn ingredients were not making Chipotle customers sick. Yes, this is a matter of trust. Chipotle customers are offended that GMO foods are not labeled and that they have no choice about whether to eat them.”
The debate is as much safety-vs.-safety as safety-vs.-trust: Supporters emphasize non-toxicity to humans; opponents, the effects of their use on the environment.
“From the standpoint of scientists, if a GMO is safe, it’s acceptable. From the point of view of values, even if a GMO is safe, it is not necessarily acceptable,” Nestle told GEN. “I can think of lots of reasons to be concerned about GMOs that have nothing to do with safety.
In addition to weed resistance, those reasons include concerns over corporate food-supply control, loss of biodiversity to single-crop growth or “monoculture,” and harm to monarch butterflies laying eggs on milkweed killed by glyphosate. Supporters counter milkweed has long disrupted farming, glyphosate is less harmful than other herbicides, the monarch butterfly population began shrinking before GMOs, monoculture can improve farming, and corporations can help as well as harm.
These and other GMO issues are as settled, supporters contend, as the science of climate change. But as that debate shows, winning the science isn’t the same as winning the argument. That will require education and persuasion based on information that addresses facts and fears, and avoids invective—efforts unlikely to take root for years, if at all.